Christmas In Oxford

Here’s a few snaps from my recent trip to Oxford! Christmastime is one of my favourite seasons to visit new places. I feel like people try harder to be friendly, everything is decorated to look a bit nicer and you appreciate a warm and friendly shop or cafe that bit more. It’s no wonder most of my travelling happens during the colder months!

I have to say, the Oxford buildings remind me a little of the Cotswolds; fat yellow bricks and purple slate roofs, with windy cobbled streets running between everything. It’s all very “quaint British” to my eyes which a lot of people consider people to be a hallmark of this country. It’s funny, a huge portion of my American family are obsessed with the UK’s streets and buildings: I’m hardly the biggest fan in the world and yet I’m the one surrounded by it!

These photos were taken in a few different areas; some in various shops around Oxford, the covered market and of course a couple of the beautiful buildings. It was really magical to be able to see the Christmas lights and festive displays in the shops. Even without decorations the old buildings with their decorative lattice work looked pretty special anyway!

Oxford University Museum

Camel SkeletonI was lucky enough to spend a week in Oxford recently with one of my dear friends. There is a certain charm to the place itself but for me the highlights are definitely the museums. Last time I was there I wrote a post on the wonderful History of Science Museum and this trip we visited the OUM of Natural History and adjoining Pitt-Rivers Museum.

It was actually quite an odd experience. The Museum itself is great; wonderful architecture and factual displays. As you probably know by now, I’m obsessed with animals. Whilst we wandered around I thought that perhaps my love of animals stems from being exposed to a lot of animals at a young age. There were a lot of kids wandering around and drawing pictures of giraffes, tigers, lions etc – all the exotic, faraway animals you learn about in school.

Thing is, I can first remember seeing a giraffe aged about 4 and at this point in my life I’ve met most of these animals numerous times. I wondered if that has something to do with why I’ve always felt so strongly about animal rights and care. Perhaps the dangers and problems animals face seem more real when the animals themselves stop being theoretical?

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Seeing a preserved taxidermy tortoise when just a few short weeks ago I was interacting with real ones was a truly bizarre experience, the camel skeleton just reminded me of Casanova (the camel that “flirted” with me in Egypt), and by the time we reached a stuffed fox, all I could unhappily think about was the foxes that play outside my bedroom window here in London. I was still fascinated by the skeletons of dinosaurs and the fossils of long extinct animals, but for some reason I found the exhibits of animals still alive today really jarring and it left me feeling a bit despondent (as per usual) about the way animals are treated in our society.

My friend made the point that it’s weird to see skeletons and taxidermy and think that all those animals were hunted. I sarcastically replied that it’s hardly like animals roll over and die for us to eat them every day – but he had genuinely never considered the fact that animals were hunted to be displayed before. Perhaps it’s just the way different brains work?

Hiroshima, Sadako and the Peace Museum

I was unsure of whether to post about my brief time in Hiroshima, because obviously the events that occurred there were so devastating and so upsetting. In many ways, there’s nothing further to observe. But I left feeling like my time in Hiroshima (and Japan) was so important to me, so I’ve decided to share a few of my pictures and my thoughts. I hope you find it interesting and if not – I’ll be back to pretty dresses and sakura in the next post.

We spent most of our morning at the Peace Museum, which contains artefacts left by the bomb (of which there were very, very few) and informative displays about the science of the atomic bomb, the events leading up to and after, the medical, biological and political effects of the bomb, and lastly, an opportunity to sign an international treaty calling to an end for nuclear weapons.

*Highlight to read – some of the stories in the next paragraph you may find distressing* Some of the exhibits that have stuck in my memory particularly include the burnt school-dress of a 13 year old victim – she had sewn the dress herself, and her embroidery was still visible on the collar; a metal lunchbox found by a mother with her dead child’s uneaten lunch still intact; and a cap belonging to a boy which had some of his hair fused into the fabric from the heat of the bomb. His mother kept the cap to show his father, who was away at the time fighting in the war. There was a set of cups fused together by the intense heat – found by a man who returned home to find his entire village destroyed. The nearest he could find to a personal belonging was a set of fused cups he recognised as belonging to a cafe nearby. And there was a heartbreaking story of a wife who found her husbands skeleton, completely stripped bare, sat at his desk and holding a pen.

Due to the unprecedented nature of the atomic bomb, nobody knew what the long-term effects were. Many children who were seemingly unharmed by the bomb in neighbouring villages grew up to have fertility problems, seemingly random cancers and tumours, or degenerative diseases. Medical anomalies continued to appear for the hibakusha up to 65 years after the bomb dropped. I can’t think of any other disaster that has caused repercussions for that length of time – it is insane. As the museum explained, people were forced to live their lives in fear from the moment the bomb dropped, not knowing when or what might affect them. How can you rebuild your life under a shadow like that?

The story of Sadako Sasaki was highlighted. Sadako was a healthy 2 year old who survived the bomb in a nearby village, developed an aggressive cancer aged 12 and tried to fight it by folding a thousand paper cranes (an ancient Japanese legend that if you fold 1000 cranes your wish will come true). The museum had some of her cranes on display, and heartbreakingly, some of the squares she had folded but not completed into cranes by the time she died.

Sadako became an international symbol for the innocent children whose lives were affected by the bomb and to this day people fold cranes and bring them to the peace museum. A statue of Sadako features in the Peace Garden, surrounded by boxed displays- it was incredibly moving to see large pictures that had been created from thousands of tiny folded cranes.

I left feeling completely desolate – I wish I could console myself but the fact is there are so many countries with fighting and tragedy on a similar scale every day, and it’s hard to know how to fix it. Upon reflection, I think what struck me most at Hiroshima, beyond the sheer horror and tragedy, was the total and complete decimation of the city and everything in it. It was impossible to rebuild when there was literally nothing left – any history, culture or stories attached to the town were wiped out in a nano-second. The Hiroshima we saw (outside of the central Peace Garden) could have been anywhere. It was like an eerie cut and paste city – pleasant and functionable enough, but devoid of history, of culture. Everything was completely standard. I can’t really explain but I’ve never been somewhere that felt so utterly far from history. And I think that to me is the huge tragedy that colours all of the personal ones – the irretrievable loss of an entire community.

Miraikin

 I have to confess that as a youngster I was terrified of robots – my Mum showed me a clip of the film Short Circuit when I was about 5 and it terrified me. In the last few years I’ve become more and more appreciative of technology because I’ve realised that’s the future, and if you want to move forwards you have to embrace the future! It took me a while but I’m now fully appreciative of the applications of robotics and filled with awe and amazement at what fellow humans have managed to create, when I sometimes spend all day struggling on a single chord… anyway. If you want to see robots in Japan you can either go down the Robot Restaurant route (futuristic Moulin Rouge type cabaret show) or you can head to Miraikin and meet the developers, scientists and robots themselves. Miraikin, the museum of Emerging Science and Technology (aka, Museum of the Future), was top of my museum list before going to Japan and it did not disappoint.

Robot highlights include the worlds first walking robot, Taro the seal robot, an Otonoroid, a Teleloid, a Personoid and a series of small androids which respond to speech. Robots may still seem very sci-fi and frivolous in this country but the Japanese are really exploring what robots can do and how we can integrate them into society in a logical and useful way – combatting loneliness in elderly people or encouraging children to watch the news. I liked that a lot of their robots are designed to fill jobs our Western society gives to animals – machines are quicker, cheaper and more reliable… and not animals!

Aside from the robots the Miraikin had fascinating displays on the importance of making mistakes, the spread of science, deep-sea exploration, space exploration and renewable technologies. It was fascinating! The focal point of the museum is the huge globe, constructed of tiny screens – every 15 minutes a new show plays over the globe showing videos of the shifting plates of the earth, the spread of population, the spread of energy and the destruction of forests. 

I’ve always been interested in older, traditional methods (see here and here) and as I say, I’ve often been a bit wary of technology as it’s not something I understand so easily. I’ve realised that technology is nothing without application, and the sooner people like me can understand and integrate technology, the sooner we will all be better-equipped to start solving problems in our society – not exactly a ground-breaking realisation but an important one. I’m all for embracing robots, trigger floors and intuitive furniture if it means we can eradicate other problems, like housing deficit, renewable energy, world hunger or the employment of animals. Bring on the future!

Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine

I first went to the French architecture museum in Paris when I was 20. One of my best friends had visited a few months before as part of his architecture degree. He’d sent me a postcard which lived on my university bedroom wall, so the museum already seemed familiar. I spent an entire happy day wandering in and out of the gigantic halls, astounded by architectural feats, the permanence of everything.

Immediately it became one of my favourite museums. There’s such a sense of calm there being surrounded by the huge windows that overlook the Eiffel Tower and gardens. The atmosphere is part museum, part library and part reverential sacred space. I’m not sure if it’s the enormity of the building or the many casts of churches and cathedrals, but it’s quite unlike any other museum I’ve visited. Old buildings always fascinate me; what would they say if they could talk? What have they seen? Who have they known? Did the hands that built them know they would be remembered in hundreds of years time? Commemorated, examined by artists and dreamers?

So of course on our most recent and magical trip to Paris I took my friends. We wandered around in silence, speaking quietly in hushed tones so as not to disturb the ancient buildings. And I left with that same sense of wonder, of reverence and of sketching out ideas that might outlast me. Outside the feeling continued on the square tiles of the Trocadero, laid down hundreds of years before, and the “temporary” structure of the Eiffel Tower posing in the background.

Cité des Sciences & de l’Industrie

…but what do you have in your head?

Welcome to an outfit post from the largest science museum in Europe! We went to Paris solely for one piece at this museum. Quite the pilgrimage! Reaching that article was one of the most incredible moments of my life – I started a more specific post but couldn’t articulate the experience adequately, so for the first time ever have been unable to finish a post! This tells you how momentous it was as I am very rarely lost for words.

All of the European museums I have encountered include interactive exhibits which blend virtual reality, puzzles and film alongside traditional displays. It makes for a nice change as many of our UK exhibitions seem to be more object-driven. Highlights included Jeux de Lumiere, a hall of light, vision and optical illusions; the planetarium; the submarine; L’homme et les genes, an exhibition on humans and genetics and my personal favourite C3RV34U, a comprehensive “neuroplay” exhibition about the brain (my top science interest).

Most beautiful of all was the light room. It was so peaceful dancing around in the soft pools of pastel rainbows on the floor, lights gently changing colour. Museums give me such a safe, happy feeling; surrounded by knowledge, learning and research, inspired to think, analyse, and create.

Dress – ModCloth, gift. Bag – €12, flea market in Barcelona. Bunny shoes – £45 (sale), Irregular Choice. Kimono – £35, Topshop, gift.

Christmas Shopping in Frankfurt

German christmas markets have become a staple in London during the festive season but it can’t really compare with the genuine article! On my recent trip to Frankfurt I actually experienced the opening of the main christmas markets in the Aldstadt (Old Town). It was truly magical. The carousels began to turn, the music started playing and suddenly all the lights switched on and the whole of the Römerberg Plaza became illuminated with twinkly coloured lights. You’ll have to imagine the accompanying smells of Apfelwein, Lebkuchen and gingerbread!

I thought I’d share a few of my other tourist highlights in case any of you are visiting Frankfurt any time soon.

STADEL – Schaumainkai 63, 60596 Frankfurt am Main

The Städel is one of the biggest art collections in Germany. It is mostly drawings and paintings, although there is a huge library as well and an impressive sculpture collection. The building itself is stunning and overlooks the river, fronted by a pretty garden containing a few more sculptures.

DIE KLEINMARKTHALLE – Hasengasse 5, 60311 Frankfurt am Main

This covered market was a labyrinth of colourful fruit and veg stands, lanterns lighting the paths and twinkly fairy lights adorning the stalls. It reminded me a little of similar covered markets in the UK, except far more magical!

WOOD CARVING SHOP – Römerberg Plaza

This shop didn’t seem to have a name but the building was a dark green with a picture of a tree. This charming little shop was filled with brightly painted wood crafts and decorations. Given the season this tiny shop was overflowing with the most stunning woodwork creations for Christmas; windmills, vignettes, figurines and music boxes seemed to be overflowing from every shelf.

EATING OUT

Germany doesn’t have a reputation for being veggie-friendly – I was imagining a lot of meat and potatoes before we arrived and I wasn’t far off – but the chicken-free schnitzel I sampled was incredible. The stall I found offered potato, aubergine and tofu variations. Make sure you get yours with mustard and fried onions for the full experience!

EISERNER STEG (Lovelock bridge) – Mainkai, 60311 Frankfurt am Main

If you’re not familiar with the concept of the lovelock bridge, the idea is a couple writes their name on a padlock, secures it to a bridge and throws away the key, thus ensuring their love can never be broken. There are a number of these bridges around but I found this one particularly beautiful; the padlocks looped to the higher structure of the bridge made delicate garlands and looping boughs.

MYZEIL SHOPPING CENTRE – Zeil

Zeil is the main shopping street in Frankfurt. I was eager to visit the MyZeil mall for the architecture! The building is full of majestic curves and the central glass mirror structure is light-harvesting, meaning most of the mall is lit using reflected sunlight from the column rather than needing swathes of electric lighting. Pretty cool! I particularly enjoyed the views from the top floor and the rotating escalators; it felt a bit like a space-age film set!

If you like architecture I would also recommend DEUTSCHES ARCHITEKTURMUSEUM.  When I went there was a review the International Highrise Award, as well as a whole floor documenting the many skyscrapers in Frankfurt and their history. It definitely enhanced all my skyline-viewing for the rest of the trip!

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So there we go! Let me know if you’re off to Frankfurt anytime soon, or your favourite places if you’ve been before. I’m hoping to get back there sometime soon!

Natural History Museum

I go to the Natural History Museum a lot. From the age of about 18 I’ve been interested in zoology and have spent a lot of my free time learning about evolution and reading scientific tomes about animals. London has some excellent museums for learning about animals and the Natural History Museum is by far the biggest.

One of my favourite things about the Natural History Museum is their diverse program of events. Like all big museums there is a “Lates” event once a month and the usual half term activities for kids, but the Natural History museum also has lectures, conference days and amazing evenings such as the Dino Snores (literally my dream event) and the Night Safari series which is a unique opportunity to learn from scientists working in the field. I highly recommend their Spirit Collection tours as well which run every day. For an interested amateur like me it’s an incredible place to be able to go and learn!

Some of my favourite exhibits are the prehistoric animals (such as the wooly rhinoceros!) and the geology wing – you have  to pass through the giant revolving world to access it. I also absolutely love the large mammals hall (although it’s depressing to think about the majority of those animals being endangered) and obviously I’m a big fan of dodos, the national bird of Mauritius (my homeland). The whole museum itself is covered in carvings of animals and plants so even if you’re wandering between halls there’s something to see. It’s just a brilliant place to spend a day!